The approach needs to be delivered in a simple easy to understand language. We are transparent with our approach and not tied to one supplier. This ensures there is not a one dimensional approach that may not be the best outcome for you.
We have also built relationships with other flooring suppliers and these options and contacts can be made available if our system is not for you.
We suggest you do a bit of research on the company. Do they have a website? Are they on social media? Do they have ratings and reviews? Are they accredited in terms of trade qualification and hold the appropriate licencing? Do they provide a guarantee?
There are differing levels of UV stability. The best analogy I like to use is with sunscreen. You can use one with SPF (Sun Protection Factor) 4 or SPF 30. Both will give you protection but SPF 4 will protect you less. However, with both, you have protection but the elements will eventually prevail. Such is the case with UV stable resin top coats. They will protect but deteriorate over time.
Firstly, what look are you wanting to achieve? The products used with certain finishes will vary.
- Do you need slip resistance?
- Will the floor reflect or get direct UV exposure therefore requiring a UV stable top coat?
- The consultation process, particularly with custom unique floors, is pivotal to ensure no surprises (except exceeding expectations).
- How long will you need to remain off the floor for?
- What is the maintenance program for the ongoing care of your floor?
It is. Generally one slab will be harder than the other and is mostly a case of old and new. The preparation will need to ensure that the final product across both areas is ‘uniform.’
To do this, there could be several coats involved. If the concrete is viewed as a sponge, we need to build the sponge levels so that each ‘sponge’ absorbs the epoxy at the same rate, therefore achieving uniformity.
The smells are product additives that suppliers incorporate. They are solvents in various forms. What these solvents can help with is penetration into your concrete. As solvents are cheaper to produce and buy, most applicators will use them.
One area to be mindful of is anything with a solvent in it is going to ‘evaporate.’ What this means is, say a polyurethane is 50% solid, then 50% is solvent so if you put 2mm of this product across the floor, 1mm will stay on the floor and 1mm will evaporate.
An alternative here is to use a solventless 100% solid product that produces little to no smell and what goes onto the floor stays on the floor. There are positives to each one so certainly consult with your application professional for guidance.
The simple answer is yes….BUT…
If the area has quite a few (generally 10-15%) drummy tiles, then we would need to determine if this is going to be the best thing for your floor as ripping part of them up is okay but we now need to infill the void. The movement may also ‘upset’ the other tiles and then they become loose.
We always like to work direct with concrete. In most circumstances, it’s not going anywhere unless the soil underneath moves or the concrete itself was not prepared with the appropriate cuts and joints installed.
We will give you guidance on the various circumstances but overcoating tiles will save you on the rip up, demolition and removal cost, with a negligible difference in the additional process required to overcoat the tiles from an epoxy resin viewpoint.
We only adopt a few methods, which are labour intensive, but important for the longevity of your floor.
Mostly, we will mechanically diamond grind using various diamond grinders and the appropriate diamond tooling for your floor (as not all concrete is the same). This process removes the top crust (laitance) and opens up the concrete so that the resins we use have something to ‘grip’ to.
In some cases, we will degrease an area. This is most common in commercial kitchens and automotive areas where, if not properly prepared, the epoxy will not penetrate effectively into the concrete.
Acid etching, in our opinion, is an easy option that does not effectively prepare an area as well as diamond grinding and in some cases, shot blasting.
Further, the acid needs to be removed and will typically be hosed out into the street or down the drain…maybe even onto the grass. As you can conclude, this is not good environmental practice.
We analyse the area to be coated and take these factors into consideration and then give you a recommendation:
- inside versus outside,
- who will be using the floor (ie. Pets, children)
- can speed can be built up making it more of a slip risk
- proximity to wet areas, as this will dictate how much and to what grade we need to add the slip resistance.
Our sample boards show the differences of available slip resistance levels.
Lastly, whatever the slip resistance used, we need to ensure that you have an appropriate cleaning regimen. For example, some slip resistance levels cannot be effectively cleaned with a with a standard mop.
If you have parts that have come loose, this can be due to a number of causes. Firstly, the area may not have been appropriately prepared so the final result can look amazing but 6-12 months later, you’re having issues. Always review the preparation method.
From a discolouration viewpoint, there are also a number of factors. Broadly speaking, all epoxies will weather and depending on where you’re situated, exposure to the elements, direct exposure to UV light and the colour of your floor, some will fade sooner than others.
Further, the quality of products used will be a huge factor. Roundly speaking, the lighter the floor, the more susceptible it is to discolouration so discuss this with your application professional in the consultation phase.
The main areas that are usually patched are those at the back-of-house, ie: unseen places or commercial kitchens where conditions can be harsh but the area cannot be out of service for long.
In other areas, patching is possible, but how it marries up to the existing area will depend on age of the existing floor, wear and tear and colour matching. Mostly, the patch will be noticeable but tend to blend in over time.
Certain floors are not ideally patchable, including metallic and anything with a pattern where the difference will be obvious.